Hybrid Style: Chinese painter Fu Baoshi

FuBaoshi_poster met museumLast week I had the opportunity to see an exhibit at the Met on Fu Baoshi, a Chinese painter known for modernizing traditional Chinese art with influences from Japan and Europe. I must say that the Met is absolutely masterful at making seemingly esoteric art very accessible to the public. I wandered in not expecting much, not knowing much about the history of Chinese art, and left feeling much more connected to it through an artist who wasn’t even on my radar moments before. Such is the undeniable beauty and power of art (all images via metmuseum.org, visit link to see full collection).

fu baoshi viewing a waterfall from a mountain ridge

Fu Baoshi: Viewing a Waterfall From a Mountain Ridge, 1945, one of his later works that combines the ethereal effect of expansive ink washes (Japanese Zen influence) and his own technique of loosely scrubbed ink washes he developed while studied traditional Chinese art.

What drew me in to the exhibit was an appreciation for the beauty of Chinese landscape paintings  (which closely resemble Persian landscape paintings). Fu started off studying Chinese masters of this art to perfect his ink brushing technique. What’s interesting is that his own contemporaries saw traditional Chinese art as archaic and backward, so much that Fu had to travel to Japan, where Chinese art was still revered, to study his own country’s heritage. I love that he ignored popular sentiment and followed his own path, and as a result actually ended up swaying popular sentiment to view previously shunned Chinese art in a new light.

Fu Baoshi Landscape richly graduated ink washes is indebted to the Japanese artist Takeuchi Seiho

Fu Baoshi: Landscape, 1943, painted in Zen style with , indebted to the Japanese artist Takeuchi Seiho

By mastering Chinese tradition and learning both Zen art and European impressionist techniques while in Japan, Fu created his own style that helped Chinese art regain respect both internationally and among the Chinese themselves. The exhibit allows you to see the progression of his style from his early days copying Chinese masters, to the time he spent in Japan learning from Zen monks, to the culmination of his own technique that combined the two. For me seeing how an artist’s style evolves is as important as the work itself. I respect that his devotion to his country and the Communist movement did not prevent him from adapting techniques from other cultures in order to enrich his own, because as my blog emphasizes again and again, I’m no fan of isolationism.

fu baoshi Night Rain in the Mountains of Sichuan

Fu Baoshi, Night Rain in the Mountains of Sichuan, 1948

Fu’s later figural work further hybridizes Chinese, Japanese and European influences. He often illustrated beautiful goddesses in Chinese myths with the feel of Zen monk apparition paintings and a subtle nod to realistic Western shading techniques. I love the depth he builds, first with gradations of blurry ink washes, and then with scrubbed textures that create a shimmery effect.

Fu Baoshi Mountain Spirit Nine Songs 1946

Fu Baoshi, Mountain Spirit,1946, inspired by a shamanistic song from the ancient Chinese literary work Nine Songs

Thanks to this exhibit my appreciation for Chinese art now extends a little beyond a superficial appreciation of landscapes. It’s all in the details, and in this case coming to understand how Fu combined one brush technique with another – something I never would have noticed otherwise – illustrates the innovations he brought to Chinese art.

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The Psychology of Style

iris apfel via advanced style

Iris Apfel, image via advancedstyle.blogspot.com

My last post was about the relationship between the clothes we wear and how we perceive ourselves. To take the discussion more in the direction of personal style, here’s a short interview of star fashion icon Iris Apfel – with the awesome title “I’m not just some empty-headed fashionista”- recently posted by Ari of Advanced Style:

I love how Iris articulates that her colorful and daring fashion sense is a natural extension of who she is and what she does, not something she spends all her time crafting in order to create a certain persona. While the psych study shows that we can use clothing to influence our behavior (and this can be useful at times), I think generally it’s more authentic to allow our identity to influence our style instead.

Ultimately the difference between the psychology of clothing and the psychology of style lies in awareness of ourselves and our surroundings. Clothing will always communicate something, whether we want it to or not. If we ignore this reality and let social perception create meaning for us (this includes being slaves to fashion trends), then our behavior can easily be ruled by what we wear. But if we embrace this reality and use style as a tool for self-expression, then we create our own meaning that stems from our unique identities, and this is where creativity, risk-taking, and trend-setting emerge.

I enjoy the challenge of finding my own balance in which I am aware of social perceptions (and embrace those that make sense to me), but always make sure my style is a natural extension of who I am, regardless of how popular my sartorial choices are at the moment. It’s about confidence as much as it’s about style – the two go hand-in-hand – and this is what Iris’s style exemplifies, making her the fashion icon that she is.

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The Psychology of Clothing

street style

images via refinery29 and solitaire-solidaire.tumblr

Psychology is one of my favorite subjects, one that is closely tied to fashion. Much like body language (which studies show accounts for over 50% of our communication) style is a visual language, and so questions surrounding what clothes mean and how they affect the way we perceive ourselves and are perceived by others are an important part of larger discussions on psychology, society and culture.

doctors in white lab coats

The meaning we assign to a doctor's coat affects both the wearer and viewer. image via asiahealthcareblog.com

This week the New York Times had an interesting article called Clothes and Self-perception, about a recent study observing how clothing affects thinking and behavior. To briefly sum it up, the study had some participants don a doctor’s white lab coat to test if they acted more doctor-like, with greater care and attention to detail, than participants wearing street clothes. Not surprisingly, they did. However other participants who were told the same white coat was a painter’s smock did not improve, indicating that perception of the coat’s meaning impacted the wearer’s behavior. Another important part of the study showed that the participant had to actually wear the coat to improve; it was not enough to just be near it and know what it meant.

street style 2

images via stylebubble and stylepantry

We all know that in certain situations, clothing has a big impact. Dressing well for an interview affects our own confidence as well as the interviewee’s confidence in us. A police or army uniform affects the wearer’s sense of authority and how others behave. But what about everyday situations to which we don’t attach the same importance? Can this study extend to subjective fashion choices? For example does constantly wearing jeans, which is practically an informal uniform for the overwhelming majority of Americans, affect our tendency to conform? Does dressing a little more adventurously translate into more adventurous thinking and behavior? Do the psychological effects of wearing a particular type of clothing everyday eventually wear off and stop affecting us?

Are we at the mercy of whatever meaning society has attached to say, a dress vs. pair of pants, or can we define “femininity” and “masculinity” in our own ways (or not at all) and behave accordingly? It would have been interesting for this study to compare how the participants behave if they are told the lab coat is a painter’s smock, but are then encouraged to imagine it to be a doctor’s coat – would they be able to behave more doctor-like based on their own belief despite knowing that the coat’s social perception was different? When it comes to the meaning of clothes and personal style, the difference between what society says and what we ourselves believe can sometimes be very different, but I think that’s where taking risks and going with our own voices makes us stronger and more creative.

I could list 100 more questions related to the issues this study brings up. As the relatively new field of embodied cognition grows, I am excited to see what scientists find. There are no easy answers to these questions, but I think there’s value simply in the journey of exploring them, regardless of whether solid conclusions are ever reached. Feel free to share your thoughts!

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Hybrid Crush: Furniture Designer Nada Debs

I love learning about different artists and designers who share my passion for hybridizing cultures. I recently came across the beautiful work of Nada Debs, a Lebanese furniture designer raised in Japan, who merges these cultures in her work: “As heir to two disparate cultures, Debs has chosen a design path that marries the geometric but decorative Middle Eastern tradition with the pure forms of Japan” (wallpaper.com). The result is furniture that feels both traditional and modern, both ornate and simple, and achieving this difficult balance makes her work transcendent.

Nada Debs arabesque moderne and c shaped table

Left: Nada Debs sitting in her Arabesque Moderne chair. Right: Clear C-shaped Table with geometric inlay. Images via wallpaper.com.

The geometric designs in these pieces clearly reference Arab tradition, but are also graphic renditions of Japanese cherry blossom shapes. Brilliant!

Arabesque Armchair by Nada Debs 2007 front back

Arabesque Armchair by Nada Debs 2007. Image via wallpaper.com.

Ali Baba cabinet and Arabian Nights mirror by Nada Debs

Ali Baba cabinet and Arabian Nights mirror by Nada Debs. Image via wallpaper.com

It’s no secret that I love Arab geometric design, but what I have not yet discussed on this blog is my love for many elements of Japanese culture, particularly origami. Paper-folding is a constant source of inspiration in fashion design, since fabric and paper can be folded in similar ways to create interesting, modern shapes.

shadowfolds by rutzky and palmer copy examplesSo imagine my excitement a couple years ago when I found a book called Shadowfolds that combined Japanese origami, Arab geometric motifs, and fabric (pretty much my holy trinity)! So I can certainly relate to Nada Debs in seeing the unusual connection between Japanese and Arab design. In fact her work is reigniting my interest in it, so I look forward to picking up this book again and sharing some folding experiments with you!

Another great book, Origami Tessellations, teaches similar techniques in paper instead of fabric.

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Loomstate’s Reversible, Multi-functional Collection

Loomstate has a special place in my heart. When I first became interested in eco-fashion many years ago, it was one of the first brands I heard of. I even remember when the head designer, Rogan Gregory, was approached by Bono and Ali Hewson to design their ethically-conscious Edun line. It is a pioneering brand that continues to up the ante on sustainability in the fashion industry, whether it’s through educating design students or creating stylish multi-functional garments:

loomstate nami top

"Nami" top has 3 color-block combinations built-in. Image via ecouterre.com

loomstate oki dress

The "Oki" dress features two solid layers and one color-blocked panel. Image via ecouterre.com

I love garments that can be worn in more than one way, so this new Loomstate collection of reversible, convertible dresses and tops is such a treat. Inspired by Rothko and Mondrian paintings, they brilliantly utilize the color-blocking trend and multiple layers to create garments that can be worn up to 8 different ways, with fun videos to showcase the functionality of each piece. Getting more use out of one garment is not only smart and environmentally-beneficial design, but a great travel solution when space is tight and great day-to-evening solution when time is tight. In other words, these are thoroughly modern pieces for the modern woman’s wardrobe:

I’m now inspired to try working multiple layers into one garment! The soft Tencel fabric Loomstate uses keeps the layers from feeling bulky, but I’d love to try using chiffon instead. In addition to fun color-blocking combinations, chiffon will allow me to play with transparency and layering colors to create new ones. Fun!

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Midnight Milky Way

Unfortunately my computer recently caught a virus, which is making anything I try to do on it take 50 times longer than it should. So for now I’m going to keep it simple and post a couple photos from the weekend.

style hybrid jewelry workshop midnight milky waystyle hybrid jewelry workshop midnight milky wayI worked on a new necklace late Saturday night. It’s my most sparkly design yet! It reminds me of Dubai style, which is known for the stark contrast of black with bright Swarovski crystals, and its shape reminds me of the wispy curves of the Milky Way. Initially it was inspired by a couple of jewel-encrusted dresses from Lanvin Spring 12:

lanvin rtw spring 2012 runway jewel encrusted dressEnough can’t be said about the genius of Alber Elbaz. Normally I dislike too much sparkly glitz, but he does it in a way that’s sophisticated and empowering, not girly (how daring to have a jeweled snake wrap around a dress!). The asymmetry, contrast of black, and intense density of the rhinestones help send that power message, while the curved shape adds a hint of sensuality.

lanvin rtw spring 2012 runway jewel snake encrusted dressI am drawing inspiration from all these elements and adding my own twists as well, as you’ll see when it’s finished. I hope to share the final design with you soon!

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Jackson Pollock meets Eastern Latticework

style hybrid stylehybrid squiggly latticework gold cuffI’m very excited about my latest jewelry design, which will go up on Etsy this weekend (along with another piece which I’ll leave as a surprise :) ). Much like my previous golden cuff, this one is made of material you can see through, but this design is more organic and “messy”, kind of like the wire-wrapped jewelry I discussed here. I like to think of it as Jackson Pollock’s modern art meets traditional Eastern latticework.

Jackson Pollock Autumn Rhythm

Jackson Pollock's "Autumn Rhythm"

PLUS

Pakistan badshahi mosque latticework jaalis

Badshahi Mosque in Lahore, Pakistan

Plus the Midas Touch

EQUALS

style hybrid squiggly latticework golden cuff 2I found this innovative squiggly fabric a few weeks ago and because I love it so much (and it cost a pretty penny!), I’ve been carefully considering how to use it. To start I’ve decided to let it speak for itself, simply highlighting its modernist splendor by encasing it in simple gold faux leather edging. It fits the metallic cuff trend while standing out as a completely unique piece. I hope to do a whole lot more with this fabric, so stay tuned!

style hybrid squiggly latticework cuff on arm

 

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Major vintage fashion illustration archive now available online

As a lover of vintage fashion and illustration, I was very excited to get this news over the weekend! Two of my favorite New York institutions – Fashion Institute of Technology (my alma mater) and New York Public Library (where I love to go and study) – teamed up to digitize the fashion illustrations made by Andre Studios between 1930 and 1941 for free online access here.

balenciaga coat illustration andre studios 2

Illustration of Balenciaga Coat

The 30′s were a really exciting time in fashion, as you can see from the list of legendary designers represented in these archives: Chanel, Balenciaga, Schiaparelli, etc. I love how easy it is to browse by designer, garment, and design detail. This is a goldmine of inspiration for designers and a fun way to become more well-versed in fashion history.

balenciaga coat illustration andre studios 3

Balenciaga coat with pleat and fur bow detail

Many fashion organizations and corporations are making the move towards digitizing their archives. Most charge a hefty fee for access, but I’m glad to see that this project is really about education rather than profit, and is therefore open to all. Ultimately the site “aims to inspire today’s designers while also documenting the significant role of New York’s fashion industry in the history of 20th-century fashion. An additional goal is to encourage continued fashion-related digital collaboration among cultural heritage institutions in New York.” I’m sure this project will do exactly that.

Chanel coat with lines on four pockets at front

Chanel coat with lines on four pockets at front

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Nebula Scarf on Etsy

A looong time ago in this post I shared my experience with custom printing on fabric. I utilized a great company called Spoonflower to produce an image of the Carina nebula on silk/cotton to make into a scarf. Well, lately my nebula necklace has been getting on a few astronomy-themed Etsy treasury lists (thank you, kind Curators!), often alongside another Etsy shop called Pillars of Creation that produces scarves very similar to the one I did. So if you’d like your very own nebula scarf, check them out! In fact I think the one below uses the exact same image I did, but is printed on an even nicer fabric – semi-sheer silk!

pillarsofcreation etsy nebula scarf

Pillars of Creation Carina Nebula scarf on Etsy - $75

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Mario Testino’s Home: Worldly Eclectic Meets Graphic Minimalist

Mario Testino LA home Vogue Eclectic Modern Minimal

"Mauritanian leather–stitched straw mats and rugs found at Mustapha Blaoui’s store in Marrakech, and Peruvian glazed pottery, brighten the minimalism of Mario Testino’s living room, while works by Friedrich Kunath, Thomas Houseago, and Sergej Jensen frame an archway leading to the dining room. On model Natalia Vodianova: Proenza Schouler printed raffia knit top and skirt.

It was love at first sight when I saw the slideshow of fashion photographer Mario Testino’s home on Vogue.com. His style is very similar to my own – a combination of graphic minimalism and worldly eclecticism. He draws from his Peruvian roots much like I draw from my Pakistani roots, and likewise he explores and appreciates the beauty of other cultures, creating unique and vibrant hybrid compositions of all these different influences in his home. This shoot, which combines spectacular interior design and fashion design, is deliciously aspirational eye-candy.

Mario Testino's LA home Vogue eclectic modern minimal

"Rob Pruitt’s Moonlight Bamboo I (2001) looms above an embossed-leather colonial wooden bench from Peru. Marni cotton-and-silk top and embellished skirt. Maiyet necklaces. Roger Vivier clutch. Prada flame wedges."

“The results set up a multitude of unexpected dialogues—between the art and the objects and furnishings. ‘I like the idea of things that show your travels around the world—show your life,’ says Testino. ‘And I enjoy the idea of all the different cultures meeting here. Japan meets Peru, Peru meets America, America meets England, England meets Denmark, Denmark meets France, you know. Total integration of cultures. I guess it’s the future, no?’” I certainly hope so! :)

Mario Testino's LA home Vogue eclectic modern minimal

"Works like David Noonan’s Untitled (2010), near right, and Rachel Feinstein’s mirrored Marie with Fan (2006), above, offset the baroque heaviness of Hispano-Moresque furniture. Etro embellished silk top and fringed flapper skirt. Prada earrings. Alice Kwartler Antiques and Robert Lee Morris necklaces. Bottega Veneta oxidized-silver bangle."

I love the seamless inclusion of Art Deco fashion, a major Spring trend, in the photo above.

Mario Testino's LA home Vogue eclectic modern minimal

"Hand-woven Peruvian ponchos cover cushions and pillows in the banquette area, while Sérvulo Gutiérrez’s white sculpture Cabeza de Selvícola (1942) sits on a table constructed by Jaime Liébana. Carolina Herrera embroidered coat and dress. Cara Croninger disc earrings. Roger Vivier clutch."

The space above reflects a well-traveled, creative, open-minded person. Someone with a sense of humor and a love for the unexpected.

Mario Testino's LA home Vogue eclectic modern minimal botega veneta dress

"The photographer in a playful moment. On Vodianova: Bottega Veneta embroidered chiffon dress and earrings. Kelacala Q rectangle chain necklace and bracelet. Amy Glenn ring."

I love the Botega Veneta dress above, which combines graphic minimalism with a touch of ethnic eclecticism. I’m reminded a little of Balenciaga’s Fall ’11 show, which I wrote about here. So seeing the famed Spanish house’s look in the image below makes perfect sense.  Testino says of his style, “When you mix Incan minimalism with the heavy, ornate Spanish Baroque, it is very interesting.”

Mario Testino's LA home Vogue eclectic modern minimal

"A bold array of artworks, including Matt Greene’s And the Blood Gave Life to the Limbs of the Three, top left corner, and Judith Eisler’s Glove (Despair), top right, decorates the wrought-iron staircase. Balenciaga cotton-and-silk dress with iridescent fringed skirt, hat, and shoulder bag. Barbara Bui heels."

Mario Testino's LA home Vogue eclectic modern minimal

"Mosaic tiled appliqués and a clutch swirling with Navajo-inspired prints mimic the rich, earth-hued decor. Dior linen-and-silk organza dress and clutch. Cara Croninger beaded necklace. LaCrasia gloves. Marni sandals."

 

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